ARTICLES

**THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS**

*(Article published in the specialized magazine Vision Salvaje in 2009)*

**INTRODUCTION. CONTEXT.**

It is inevitable to associate the name of these islands with that of Charles Robert Darwin (1809-1882). Moreover, it is well known that this year marks two anniversaries related to his figure. The first commemorates the birth of the eminent naturalist, marking 200 years since his birth, while the second marks 150 years since the publication of his revolutionary work "On the Origin of Species." So far, these facts are widely publicized, but why this international resonance, what is the significance of these celebrations?

It would not be an exaggeration to say that it is because Darwin's theories are undoubtedly one of the cornerstones of modern thought. His ingenious, intelligent, and astute observations support multiple deductions that are the foundation of issues widely accepted today, such as gender and race equality. Scientifically, it confirms the kinship of all living beings. In short, after his discoveries, it can be emphatically stated that we are the result of evolution and that natural selection determines our fate. All of this shattered the anthropocentric and creationist model that considered man as the king of creation, with the right to use/destroy, without any limit, the Nature that housed him.

**GEOLOGY**

But let's move swiftly to the aesthetically captivating and naturalistic aspects of this enclave. The first thing that strikes us is the obviousness of its volcanic origin. We are impressed by the substrate we walk on, which in most cases gives us the feeling that it is freshly solidified lava under our boots. In some images, you can appreciate the colors that the immense heat has imparted to the incandescent earth. The flow dynamics of lava as it moves towards the sea have produced striking "architectural" structures. On Baltra Island, we can enter a volcanic tube of cathedral-like dimensions, which happens to be the second largest found on our planet. Some of these tubular structures open into the sea at one end, while at the other, on solid ground, they emerge on the surface. The result is that when the force of the waves hits the coast, it generates a flow of water that violently penetrates these tubes, eventually erupting energetically from the other end, creating a kind of geyser of great beauty. Here, these structures are called "blowers" because the water mixed in their violent exit with the air, and the combination of these two elements creates sprayed water in the form of an ascending column that reminds us of the blowing of cetaceans. Everything invites us to confirm the hypothesis, supported by geologists, that we are in one of the most active "hot spots" on the planet.

The question of the geological origin of these islands is essential to support Darwin's theory. It explains the isolation of species, both flora and fauna, in their evolution apart from the continent. In other words, these land fragments in the middle of the Pacific, more than 1000 km from the American coast, did not break off from the continent but solidified from magma that emerged from the depths of the Earth.

However, the marine contribution of fine sands, derived from the degradation of coral materials, although secondary in terms of quantitative importance, gives the islands delightful beaches, of immaculate white appearance, endowing them with extraordinary aesthetic quality.

**FLORA**

There are several floral communities that stratify based on the altitude at which they are located. Quantitatively, succulent vegetation predominates, located next to the coastal strip, as dryness is the usual climate in these parts; but we have other representatives that prefer a wetter habitat, located at higher altitudes, such as the palo santo (Bursera graveolens), giving rise to groves that appear as a silvery band on the slopes of some old volcanoes.

As for the specific vegetation of arid areas, the so-called prickly pears (Opuntia sp.) are of particular relevance as they are the food source for land iguanas and also served as salvation for many shipwrecked individuals who reached these lands and were able to quench their thirst thanks to the water retained inside the fleshy structures of these plants.

Another representative of this ecosystem's flora, which particularly attracts photographers due to the colors they add to the landscape, is the plants of the genus Sesuvium. They create a canvas full of reds, yellows, and ochres that are difficult to forget, visible from far away as we sail towards North Plaza Island where these plants reach their peak. It is here where we find an extraordinary abundance of the Galápagos endemic grasshopper, undoubtedly an important food resource for birds and iguanas.

Mangroves are undoubtedly another dominant species. The mangroves formed by these trees create a dense coastal maze with their branches and roots that provide shelter for fry, and later for the juveniles that originate from them, of many species that come to these formations precisely to entrust their precious offspring to this refuge. Consequently, there will never be a shortage of predators attentively stalking this food treasure. This community reaches extraordinary splendor and beauty in Black Turtle Cove. Here, from a small boat locally known as a panga, we can observe, in shallow waters of the mangrove, the copulations on the surface of several pairs of Pacific green turtles (Chelonia myda agassizii) and the corresponding advances of the males trying to displace the copulating ones driven by the instinct to perpetuate themselves. Initially, the abundance of sharks passing just centimeters away from our boat, ostentatiously showing their large dorsal fins and leaving a subtle trail on the water's surface, might startle us, chilling the blood of all on board. However, after a few minutes, it becomes so natural to us that the initial anxiety of seeing them subsides definitively.

**FAUNA**

**REPTILES**

How can one not associate the Galápagos Islands with those giant tortoises (Geochelone nigra) of proverbial slowness, gentle appearance, and one of whose popular names has given rise to the toponym of the archipelago! We can find them avidly feeding on the different plants in their habitat, basking peacefully, or enjoying a leisurely bath in the ponds they often use for that purpose.

Talking about Galápagos iguanas means talking about another of these essential icons of this enclave. We will undoubtedly be mesmerized when observing marine iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus). It is common to see these animals near a large white spot on one of the immense black lava rocks that make up the coast. If we stop to observe them, we will soon notice how they "sneeze" a milky liquid that ends up on the described spot on the rock. It is another curiosity of the adaptive phenomenon of life. These iguanas feed on aquatic plants in the underwater bottom, rich in salt, and then eliminate it in the form of a genuine "sneeze," emitting, abruptly and violently (be cautious with the equipment when approaching for close-up shots!), a dense brine. When this brine is deposited on the rock and the sun evaporates its low water content, it creates the mentioned whitish, fan-like, and ubiquitous mottling that strikingly stands out against the black

rocks of the coast.

But we cannot forget their relatives, the land iguanas (Conolophus sp.), which exhibit well-differentiated anatomies on each of the islands that make up this unique archipelago. In the photographs, you can appreciate how distinct these morphological differences are.

Smaller but very abundant, and with a comical agility in their movements, we have the endemic lava lizard (Tropidurus sp), which, with its striking red chest, will lead us on amusing chases to capture it through our lenses.

There are three species of snakes in the islands, all harmless to humans as none of them have a venom-injecting mechanism.

**AQUATIC MAMMALS**

It would be unjust not to mention the coexistence on these coasts of two types of seals with distinctly different origins. We cannot forget that we are on the Earth's equator, which means that we are equidistant from both hemispheres. This geographical peculiarity comes to life in a faunistic nuance because one of the seals that inhabit here comes from the northern hemisphere, specifically the California sea lion (Zalophus californianus wollebaeki). The other, from colder origins, comes from the Antarctic, precisely displaying that name, which betrays its origin, the Antarctic seal, also known as the two-haired seal or fur seal (Arctocephalus australis).

**CRUSTACEANS**

Since our journey through these islands has been terrestrial, we will only mention in this group the ubiquitous Pacific crab locally known as zayapa (Grapsus grapsus), whose abundance is extraordinary. I would dare to tell you that it is one of those beings that seem to come from a daring imagination, a living being so colorful that its description becomes ineffable. I refer to the images for readers, undoubtedly seasoned photographers, to judge for themselves.

**BIRDS**

Without a doubt, birds would require a monographic article, but I will try, in a few lines, to highlight the most important aspects of this ecological aspect of the place:

A challenge for our photographic reflexes will undoubtedly be capturing the rapid aerial evolutions of the conspicuous frigates (There are two species of frigates in the islands: Fregata magnificens and minor). It will undoubtedly be a moment of great photographic pleasure if we are lucky enough to find a male in its perch with the red gular sac inflated with tension.

Pelicans, humorously referred to as "urinal pelicans" because the species that inhabits these waters is scientifically known as Pelacanus occidentalis, endemic subspecies, urinator. They are very conspicuous, roaming alone or in small groups of few individuals and are another desirable subject for photographers.

The Galápagos dove (Zenaida galapagoensis) is another delightful creature that impacts you, adorned with a beautiful blue mask. I assure you that its beauty is so peculiar that we will never forget its sight. It is a bit more reluctant to allow our lenses to approach, despite the questionable stereotype that birds here perch on your shoulder.

Another icon of the place is the boobies, essentially a version of the well-known gannets (Sula bassana) from our latitudes. The striking blue-footed booby (Sula nebouxii) will be attractive to us due to its peculiar blue color, and, why not say it, for looking so appealing in our images, it will make us stay near them for as long as possible. The masked booby (Sula dactylatra granti), with its comical mask, possesses a beauty that, although more subdued in color, is by no means inferior to the former.

The lava heron (Butorides sundevalli) is another bird we will find everywhere, always busy carefully observing the shallow coastal waters to procure food.

If luck smiles on us, we might even come across the nocturnal heron (Nyctassa violacea), locally known as guaco, which, as its name indicates, feeds at night.

A small, lively bird, with a red crest and yellow-green plumage, is called the Galápagos yellow warbler (Dendroica petechia aureola), or Galápagos canary, and it will repeatedly come to meet us.

The swallow-tailed gull (Ceagrus furcatus) with its intense red periocular ring is another endemic species to mention, breeding only in these islands. They are easy to spot and very comfortable around humans.

Yet another endemism is the Galápagos flycatcher (Myiarchus magnirostris).

The flightless cormorant (Phalacrocorax harrisi) represents one of those paradigmatic examples of adaptation to the environment. The aquatic birds have so much food in these waters that they do not need to fly to reach it; to find the fish they feed on, they only need to leisurely dive from their coastal perches. The consequence is that they have dispensed with this functionality. In other words, they do not need to fly to reach their food, and consequently, they are in an evolutionary phase where their wings have drastically reduced in size.

Albatrosses (Phoebastria/Diomedea irrorata) and finches (They are grouped into four different genera), although less striking in terms of their plumage, are ubiquitous on different islands and habitats. Their ethological and morphological peculiarities have caused various famous naturalists to write extensively about them.

Not to be missed in these islands, my dear friends, are the exotic touch of the existence of penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus), which are in serious danger of extinction, precisely like many other creatures that live here. Although their presence is atypical in these latitudes, they are the only penguins found in the northern hemisphere. The existence of a cold current, known as the Humb

oldt current, dominant to the west of the islands, makes this touch of polar fauna possible, putting the icing on the cake, from a naturalistic point of view, to this idyllic destination.

*Juan Carlos Muñoz Rodríguez. July 2009.*

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MADAGASCAR

(Article published in the magazine Visión Salvaje in 2010)

The land of lemurs is a distant destination; we need to fly to reach it, first with our minds, letting them wander in search of idyllic destinations, transcending our natural tendency to confine ourselves to what immediately surrounds us. Secondly, we need to travel there physically, overcoming the fear that comes with defying our nature as terrestrial beings.

But once all these obstacles are overcome, the reddish hues of its land, the scarlet light of its sunsets, the turquoise shades of its crystal-clear waters, the white and immaculate sands of its endless beaches, the lush green tones of its jungles, its deserts with ineffable ochre and golden hues, its unique vital forms, and undoubtedly, the joy and kindness of its people, will more than compensate for the efforts made.

My intention with this small article is ambitious; it is nothing less than to transport you to this paradise. I won't resort to verbose discussions of biotopes and specimens; I simply want the images to speak to you, enchanting you with this island suspended in time.

UNIQUENESS

Why does this land hold such exceptional status for all naturalists? There are countless reasons, but from a generic perspective, it's because of the age-old isolation that this land has experienced. This isolation allows us to observe a nature that has developed incommunicado from the rest of the planet for such an extended period that it can only be conceived if we imagine it in terms of geological time. Here, the evolutionary concept of adaptive radiation makes sense: we see how a primitive being has given rise to a series of unique living beings in this space, beings that do not exist anywhere else on the planet. At the same time, the same primitive individual evolved into other vital forms, giving rise to other unique beings in neighboring geographical spaces. The examples are as numerous as the exquisite beauty of their results.

Let's now review what we could call the "typical topics" about our paradisiacal island:

The primitive lemurs gave rise to simians in the rest of the world, but here, they diversified into different species that now occupy various ecological niches.

I will never forget my first encounter with one of these marvelous creatures. The day had not yet fully dawned when a concert of howls and murmurs, emanating from the tamarind forest near our cabin, made me jump out of bed, compelled to search for the authors of this sonorous spectacle. When I turned a corner of the red sandy path that led into the thickets, I had an encounter. This specimen of maki, in the manner shown in the image, appeared before my groggy eyes. It looked at me, indifferent, and continued with its pleasant sunbath, oblivious to my hustle with cameras and tripods. If Buddha had an animal representation, it would undoubtedly be a ring-tailed lemur sunbathing at the beginning of the day in Berenty.

Chameleons are strange beings with changing coloration that guarantees them foolproof mimicry, or phenotypic plasticity, depending on their will and circumstances. They achieve this change in hue thanks to a hormonal mechanism that excites or inhibits peculiar pigment cells located in their skin. But as surprising as this originality is, it is not the only one they possess. Their necks have limited mobility, but the extremely independent movement of their eyes gives them enviable visual control of their environment. They can, at will, have two visual fields, right and left, or a central binocular vision, necessary for the use of a lethal weapon that I will describe to you shortly. I'm referring to their prodigious, retractable, sticky tongue, capable of reaching an unsuspecting prey at a considerable distance. Their tail and prehensile fingers complete an original design reminiscent of a prehistoric being that has demonstrated unquestionable efficiency over time. A relevant fact to consider is that more than half of all chameleon species on the planet call this island home.

The quintessential icon of the Malagasy island could not be absent, the topic of all topics: the baobabs. Magical-symbolic thinking has not transformed reality to serve humans, but what it has undoubtedly given us is countless stories in which humans, from various eras, have poured overwhelming beauty and sensitivity. This is the case with many African legends that offer an explanation for the existence of this strange tree. Eight baobab species are known worldwide, and six of them are endemic to the island, meaning they exist only here.

PARADOXES

Another relevant aspect of this unusual place is undoubtedly the countless examples of fabulous contradictions that naturalists try to resolve concerning the large island. Although the most surprising thing is the geographical distribution of species, it's not the only reason for perplexity:

The exquisite carnivorous plants belonging to the pitcher plant genus have their habitat only here, in India, and in Oceania.

This tiny pitcher, with its delightful design, contains a potion, which you can see as a liquid level in the image. This liquid can act as placental fluid or as corrosive gastric juice depending on the visiting species. Indeed, small insect bodies are usually dissolved in it to be used by the plant as nutrients. But it has been discovered that certain species can use it to successfully house their eggs.

In the territory we are discussing, there are no salamanders, newts, toads, or tree frogs. Instead, the phenomenon of adaptive radiation mentioned is very striking in the case of other Malagasy frogs, especially in the family of Mantellidae. We bring up the image of a beautiful tomato frog (Dyscophus antongilii).

Snakes developed a peculiar and terrifying adaptive mechanism here. Cobras and vipers have sophisticated and lethal venom-injecting devices, but this... did not happen on our island. Here, we will never run the risk of being bitten by a venomous snake because they simply do not exist. Within snakes, boas are only represented in this territory by the Malagasy boa, but to find other members of this group, we must look to... South America; in the regions that border our island, their place is occupied by pythons.

On the rest of the planet, geckos are nocturnal animals with unremarkable colorations since the night is their vital space and they do not need bright colors. They also have vertical pupils. But, and by now, nothing in Madagascar should surprise us, there is one with a circular pupil and a striking, delightful coloration; it is the Phelsuma that happily roams branches and walls during the day, delighting nature photographers.

This paragraph could be turned into an endless list that would only increase our astonishment and admiration for this land.

EPILOGUE

We cannot forget that we are in Africa, which is the epitome of primordial nature and where the origins of humanity lie. But in reality, these reasons, grounded in scholarly scientific studies, seem to me like the conceptualization of a feeling, like a "posteriori" justification of the emotions that the stay here provokes in us. Just the sight of it is moving, captivating, seductive, not only for the naturalist who loves it as the continent of his passions but also for visitors of various backgrounds and education. Perhaps it could be the magnetism of the archetyp

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**NATURAL SPOT: ODIEL RIVER MARSHES**

*(Article published as a prologue to the commemorative book of the Exhibition about the Spot in 2010)*

When we set foot on the small pieces of solid ground that make up this space, we might very well be stepping on what was once the mythical land of Tartessos. This fact alone gives our visit a special charm. The area is rich in archaeological sites of various origins, still under study, with human occupation scientifically proven since the Paleolithic era.

We find ourselves in estuarine marshes that many experts consider the most relevant in the Iberian Peninsula, and the second most important wetland in the province of Huelva, after Doñana.

Currently, the area is surrounded by an extensive industrial zone to the east, although the pollution from it has minimal impact thanks to the prevailing purifying winds from the west. The rest of the cardinal points are populated by a genuine urban belt that encircles it on its entire perimeter, except in the south and part of the west where it opens up to the open sea. The mentioned urban constraint is formed by the continuously expanding towns of Huelva, Aljaraque-Corrales, Gibraleón, and Punta Umbría. Surprisingly, despite this panorama, all ornithological indicators, especially the number of species sighted and their reproductive activity, indicate excellent health.

We could list a long array of national and international titles certifying its values as a site of unquestionable importance, both from a botanical and faunal point of view, but I will only mention one: the title of Biosphere Reserve, which the UNESCO granted twenty-five years ago. Despite being backed by this title of undeniable international relevance, we would still be missing its main values if I didn't mention other aspects of its delicate configuration. I'm referring to the magic of its lights, its colorful dawns, its fiery sunsets, the mysterious tones that the beams of light acquire, filtered through storm clouds, illuminating its beaches in an unreal way; the symphony of smells, both from its marshes and the abundant aromatic plants in its Mediterranean forest; the voices or whispers of its winds; in short, that set of peculiar traits that makes this place captivate you with charms that often seem apocryphal. But let's move on to a more prosaic review of the possibilities we have when visiting this unique and unknown spot.

Its flora is of unusual beauty and enormous naturalistic value. We can see the rare yellow horned-poppy (Glaucium flavum) with its beautiful yellow flowers on its sandy beaches. As we walk through the dunes toward the sea, we can smell the perfume of the pearly flowers of the sea daffodil (Pancratium maritimum). We can be amazed by the fiery red color of some samphires (Salicornia sp.) that inhabit the mud in its marshes. And along the roadside that traverses the area, we can admire the large vegetal masses formed by the white broom (Retama monosperma), which in spring turn into huge snowballs on an intensely blue canvas that seems unreal. Equally captivating is the gum rockrose (Cistus ladanifer) that appears everywhere with its immense white flowers touched on their petals with an intense red, in its maculata varieties, alternating, as few places allow, with another form without spots that botanists call inmaculata. And so, we could keep talking about its vegetation in an endless story.

But we have more to discover since one of the most recognized values of this area is its rich fauna. Specifically, its birdlife is of such magnitude that, without risk of error, we can affirm that it is one of the main SPAs (Special Protection Areas for Birds) in our country. It is enough to mention that, in its mudflats, the scarce and delicate spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia) nests every spring, giving it exceptional value - consider that the breeding colony we mention is the largest in Europe. Additionally, and as if this were not enough, last spring marked the second year in which flamingos gave us a plentiful and successful breeding colony in which more than 400 chicks of this rare species were ringed. We can mention another historical milestone of incalculable ornithological importance that took place in 2008. I am referring to the successful breeding of a pair of ospreys (Pandion haliaetus), which as you know is an extraordinarily rare occurrence in our environment and signifies the result of the care taken to nurture this species in this emblematic natural area. It is fair to say that thanks to the dedicated efforts of the responsible staff, the number of individuals of this species in wintering has been steadily increasing for several years, and the reintroduction program for the species is yielding promising results. The wintering population of black-necked grebes (Podiceps nigricollis) is undoubtedly the largest in Spain, and a duck as difficult to see in our country as the common shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) has an abundant population of wintering birds here, so much so that we can say that observing it in the area is not at all rare. Finally, we cannot forget that this area is renowned among naturalists for the richness of its wader population. In short, the visit will not disappoint regardless of the chosen season. The ornithological panorama will be different in each season, but given its vocation as a welcoming haven for migratory birds, we are always guaranteed to see a large number of species.

Regarding human use of these lands, salt has been extracted from these marshes since time immemorial, and traditional salt pans, still operated with tools and procedures that are obsolete in most of our territory, continue to exist in the area. To allow us to enjoy this activity, a small on-site interpretation center has been set up where visitors can enjoy a recreation of how these traditional procedures are carried out. Surprisingly, they coexist with extensive industrial salt pans, only a few meters away, allowing us to appreciate the contrast between the two extraction methods during our visit to these lands. The salt pans are precisely the habitat of brine shrimp, microscopic crustaceans that are one of the main foods of the flamingos. The flamingos filter them from the water with their peculiar and huge beaks, using them as sustenance and giving them the characteristic red color exhibited in their plumage. It is in these ponds that seawater accumulates, gradually concentrating salt through the evaporation of water. This is also the habitat of an abundant ichthyofauna that constitutes the main food source for the many birds in the area.

Traditional shellfishing continues, and it is common to see the typical sight of a mud-covered shellfisher working in the area from the road that leads to the jetty's lighthouse. Sport fishing with a rod is another attraction, with the area being one of the most cherished spots for fishing enthusiasts along the Huelva coast. And let's not forget that this unknown Spot hosts a vast beach of fine white sand, which is used daily by the people of Huelva during the summer season. This beach is the nearest coastal beach to the city of Huelva, and its gentle slope into the sea allows for safe swimming. In winter, we can see some intrepid individuals using the wave train that forms under certain meteorological

conditions for surfing. On calmer days, it is not difficult to observe occasional sailors practicing their favorite sport with kayaks or traditional canoes. Hiking is allowed in the interior, provided we obtain a permit in advance, which is managed at the Spot's offices, allowing us to visit areas of a Mediterranean forest settled on a peculiar sandy substrate with abundant shells and characterized by a population of junipers of enviable size and unsurpassed beauty. Also, on the outskirts of the area, there is a clearly delineated and well-maintained lane for cyclists and hikers, winding through marshes and salt pans. The abundance of cyclists and walkers when the weather allows speaks for its gentle beauty. Some of the hiking routes have nature observatories that will undoubtedly delight both birdwatchers and bird photographers. It is worth mentioning that if we prefer a more passive visit, the Spot offers the possibility of a tour on a covered wagon pneumatic train, and even boat trips on its waters. These activities need to be arranged well in advance.

Lastly, it is important to know that there is an excellent Interpretation Center at the entrance of the Spot, where visitors are kindly informed about the activities and recreational possibilities of the area. It features audiovisual resources and various exhibitions that will allow us to get an idea of its potential uses. In this way, we can choose the best way to distribute our time based on our particular interests.