This is a translation of the article into English, maintaining the descriptive and professional tone suitable for a specialized nature magazine.
THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS
(Article published in the specialized magazine Visión Salvaje in 2009)
INTRODUCTION: CONTEXT
It is inevitable to associate the name of these islands with that of Charles Robert Darwin (1809–1882); furthermore, it is common knowledge that this year marks two anniversaries related to his figure. The first marks the 200th anniversary of the birth of the illustrious naturalist, while the second commemorates 150 years since the publication of his revolutionary work, On the Origin of Species.
This is the widely reported media fact, but why this international resonance? What is the reason for the relevance of these celebrations? It would not be the slightest bit an exaggeration to state that Darwinian theses are, without a doubt, one of the pillars of modern thought. His ingenious, intelligent, and shrewd observations support multiple deductions that are the foundation of issues as widely accepted today as the equality of sexes and races. Furthermore, they scientifically corroborate the brotherhood of all living beings. Ultimately, following his discoveries, it can be categorically stated that we are the result of evolution and that natural selection determines our path. All of this served to dismantle the anthropocentric and creationist model that considered man the "king of creation," with the right to use or destroy the nature that sheltered him without limit.
GEOLOGY
But let us move without delay to the aesthetic and naturalist aspects of this enclave, which are immensely attractive in their own right. The first thing that catches our attention is the obviousness of their volcanic origin. We are impressed by the substrate we walk upon; in most cases, it feels as if freshly solidified lava lies beneath our boots. In some images, you can appreciate the colors that the enormous temperatures have imparted to the incandescent earth.
The dynamics of lava flows as they travel toward the sea have produced striking "architectural" structures. On Baltra Island, we can enter a volcanic tube of cathedral-like dimensions, which happens to be the second largest found on our planet. Some of these tubular structures open into the sea at one end while1 opening to the surface on the mainland at the other. Consequently, when the force of the waves hits the coast, a flow of water violently enters these tubes and exits energetically through the other end, creating a sort of geyser of great beauty. Locally, these structures are called sopladores (blowers) because the water exits mixed violently with air; the mixture of these two elements results in pulverized water in the form of an ascending column, reminiscent of the blow of a cetacean.
Everything invites us to corroborate the hypothesis held by geologists: we are in one of the most active "hotspots" on the planet. The geological origin of these islands is vital to supporting Darwinian theory. It explains the isolation of species—both flora and fauna—as they evolved independently of the continent. In other words, these fragments of land in the middle of the Pacific, more than 1,000 km from the American coast, did not break away from the continent; instead, they come from the solidification of magma emerging from the very depths of the planet. Nevertheless, the marine contribution of fine sands from the degradation of coral materials—though secondary in quantitative terms—provides the islands with delicious, immaculate white beaches, giving them an extraordinary aesthetic quality.
FLORA
There are several floral communities stratified by altitude. Quantitatively, succulent vegetation predominates just beyond the coastal fringe, as aridity is the norm in this climate. However, other representatives that prefer a more humid habitat and are located at higher altitudes—such as the palo santo (Bursera graveolens)—form groves that appear as a silvery band on the slopes of some old volcanoes.
Regarding the specific vegetation of arid zones, the so-called prickly pears (Opuntia sp.) are particularly relevant. They are the primary food source for land iguanas and also served as the salvation for many shipwrecked sailors who reached these lands and managed to quench their thirst thanks to the water retained inside the fleshy structures of these plants.
Another representative of the flora, which especially catches the photographer's eye due to the colors it adds to the landscape, are the plants of the genus Sesuvium. They compose a canvas full of reds, yellows, and ochres that is hard to forget, visible from afar as we sail toward North Plaza Island. It is here that we find an extraordinary abundance of the endemic Galápagos grasshopper, which is undoubtedly an important food resource for birds and iguanas.
Mangroves are another dominant species. These trees create a dense coastal tangle of branches and roots that offer refuge to the spawn and fry of many species that come to these formations to entrust their precious offspring to this shelter. Consequently, predators are never far away, watching for that nutritional treasure. This community reaches extraordinary splendor and beauty at Black Turtle Cove (Caleta Tortuga Negra). Here, from a small boat known as a panga, we can observe the mating of several pairs of Pacific green turtles (Chelonia mydas agassizii) on the surface of the shallow waters, along with the corresponding struggles of males attempting to displace those mating, driven by the instinct to perpetuate the species. We may initially be startled by the abundance of sharks passing just centimeters from the fragile hull of our boat, ostentatiously showing their large dorsal fins and leaving a subtle wake—an effect that immediately chills the blood of everyone on board. However, after a few minutes, it becomes so natural to us that the initial anxiety vanishes.
FAUNA: REPTILES
How could one not associate the Galápagos Islands with those giant tortoises (Chelonie nigra) of proverbial slowness and good-natured appearance? One of their popular names actually gave the archipelago its name! We can find them greedily feeding on various plants, sunbathing peacefully, or enjoying a relaxed soak in the ponds they frequently use for that purpose.
To speak of Galápagos iguanas is to speak of another essential icon of this enclave. We will undoubtedly be entranced observing the marine iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus). It is common to see these animals near large white patches on the immense black lava rocks of the coast. If we stop to observe them, we will soon see how they "sneeze" a milky liquid onto the rock. This is another curiosity of life's adaptive phenomena. These iguanas feed on aquatic plants on the seabed that are full of salt; they later eliminate this salt through a violent "sneeze" of dense brine (be careful with your camera equipment when approaching for macro shots!). As the brine deposits on the rock and the sun evaporates the water, it creates the ubiquitous white mottled pattern that stands out strikingly against the black coastal rocks.
We must also mention their relatives, the land iguanas (Conolophus sp.), which exhibit distinct anatomies on each island. In the photographs, you can see how significant these morphological differences are. Smaller in size but very abundant and comically fast is the endemic lava lizard (Tropidurus sp.). With its bright red chest, it provides fun "chases" as we try to capture it with our sensors. There are also three species of snakes on the islands, all of which are harmless to humans as none possess a venom-delivery mechanism.
AQUATIC MAMMALS
It would be unfair not to mention the coexistence of two types of seals of very different origins. We must remember that we are on the Earth's maximum circumference—the Equator—and are thus equidistant from both hemispheres. This geographical peculiarity manifests in the fauna: one of the seals here comes from the Northern Hemisphere, specifically the California sea lion (Zalophus californianus wollebaeki). The other, from colder origins, comes from the Antarctic: the Galápagos fur seal (Arctocephalus galapagoensis).
CRUSTACEANS
Since our journey through these islands was land-based, we will only mention the ubiquitous Sally Lightfoot crab, locally known as the zayapa (Grapsus grapsus), which is extraordinarily abundant. I would venture to say it is one of those creatures that seems the product of a bold imagination—a living being of such color that its description is ineffable. I refer to the images so that readers, surely battle-hardened photographers, may judge for themselves.
BIRDS
Undoubtedly, the birds would require a monograph of their own, but I will attempt to highlight the most important aspects:
Capturing the rapid aerial maneuvers of the conspicuous frigatebirds (there are two species: Fregata magnificens and minor) will challenge our photographic reflexes. It is a moment of great photographic pleasure if we are lucky enough to find a male on his perch with his red gular sac fully inflated.
